Coat length – what’s important when it comes to coats and how they flatter the figure
Anyone who has seen the film “Casablanca” knows how stylish a perfectly cut coat can make a man look. Of course, the era of the trench coat, as worn by Humphrey Bogart decades ago in this famous film, is long since past. However, the rule is still: a coat that is a timeless classic is a must-have for any fashion-conscious gentleman.
Especially for men, it is important that the coat fits perfectly. We give you tips what you should consider when buying a coat.
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Make sure that the cut is right for you
In your father’s or grandfather’s times, disproportionally wide, floor-length coats were all the rage. However, fashions change. Nowadays, coats are designed to hide the rest of a man’s outfit in an understated way and emphasise it.
A coat is a perfect fit if it neither bulges nor makes you look chubbier than you are; it should in fact make you slimmer and more attractive.
The wide choice of coat designs available is bound to offer the cut that is right for you, regardless of your figure. Independent of your body shape, you should always ensure that the coat is roomy enough to wear a suit underneath. When the coat is buttoned up, it should not feel too tight.
If you are quite slim, you can also opt for a coat that is slightly tailored at the waist. However, please note the use of the term slightly!
Other than that, the cut of a tailored coat should be plain without any additional details. Otherwise, the design could easily look too feminine.
MEN WITH A WIDE BACK AND A MUSCULAR FIGURE, ON THE OTHER HAND, SHOULD OPT FOR STRAIGHT-CUT COATS. THE BUTTON FRONT OF THE COAT SHOULD ALSO BE STRAIGHT.
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The right coat length for men
A well-chosen coat must neither be too short nor too long. The coat length should be based on the size of the body.
A good guide is the rule that the hem should preferably end a hand’s breath above the knee.
This length has a visually elongating effect. Especially shorter men should choose a short coat to achieve a good proportion ratio.
Some style experts divide the body into eight equal parts to determine suitable coat lengths.
Applying this calculation to a man that is 180 centimetres tall would result in each part measuring 22.5cm. The optimum hem lengths would therefore be 22.5cm, 45cm or 67.5cm above ground level.
Even though things are often easier for women when it comes to fashion, they should still keep the rules regarding the coat length in mind. A woman’s coat should never end precisely at the knees as this makes you look shorter.
It should end at least a hand's breadth above or below the knee. Of course, this does not mean that short women shouldn’t wear long coats, and tall women should never wear short coats.
Another important factor to consider for women is the length of the skirt. If you are wearing a short coat, it’s OK for the hem of the skirt to be slightly longer than the coat. However, this does not apply to a three-quarter length coat. The skirt should either be shorter than the coat, or the same length. You can wear anything with a full-length coat.
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